Mouton Rothschild 1998

Like many of its peers, the 1998 has filled out spectacularly. Now in the bottle, this opaque black/purple-colored offering has increased in stature, richness, and size. A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc (57% of the production was utilized), it is an extremely powerful, super-concentrated wine offering notes of roasted espresso, creme de cassis, smoke, new saddle leather, graphite, and licorice. It is massive, with awesome concentration, mouth-searing tannin levels, and a saturated flavor profile that grips the mouth with considerable intensity. This is a 50-year Mouton, but patience will be required as it will not be close to drinkability for at least a decade. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050.

Tasted at the Claret Club Mouton-Rothschild dinner. The 1998 Mouton has a very deep garnet hue. The nose has good intensity and fine definition with blackberry, cassis, graphite and a touch of sous-bois. The palate is tight at first...”a dense ball of Pauillac stubbornness” are the exact words that I wrote. But it unwinds nicely: graphite and cedar interlacing the black fruit, almost brutal towards the finish that needs more persistency. This will been another 4-5 years in bottle. Tasted November 2010.